Deep beneath Beijing lies a sprawling underground city known as “Dìxià Chéng” or “The Dungeon,” originally built as a network of nuclear bunkers during the Cold War. Today, this vast labyrinth houses low-income workers and migrants, forming a hidden community in one of the world’s most expensive cities.
At a glance:
- Cold War origins: Constructed in the 1960s, the tunnels were designed to shelter 60% of Beijing’s population during a nuclear war.
- Massive network: Spanning 85 kilometers, the underground city includes living quarters, classrooms, factories, and more.
- Modern use: While technically illegal since 2010, many parts have been converted into low-cost housing and businesses.
- Difficult living conditions: Residents endure cramped spaces with no natural light, but affordable rent makes it a necessity for many.
A Cold War Megaproject
Built in 1969 under Chairman Mao Zedong’s directive to “dig deep tunnels, store food, and prepare for war,” Dìxià Chéng was envisioned as a refuge for 40% of Beijing’s population in the event of a nuclear attack. Over 300,000 civilians worked for a decade to construct the massive system, which includes 10,000 bunkers.
Designed to last centuries, the tunnels were equipped with ventilation systems to withstand nuclear, biological, and chemical attacks. Some areas were designated for growing crops like mushrooms, while others housed grain stores, factories, restaurants, and even a roller-skating rink.
After the Soviet Union’s collapse, the nuclear threat diminished, and much of the complex fell into disrepair. However, rising housing costs in Beijing resurrected its utility as a haven for the city’s economically disadvantaged.
The “Rat Tribe” and Modern Life Underground
Dubbed the “Rat Tribe” by locals, up to one million people have called Dìxià Chéng home at its peak. The underground community offers affordable living for migrant workers and low-income residents, with rents often one-third the cost of above-ground apartments.
Living conditions are challenging. Spaces are dark, cramped, and devoid of natural light. A resident named Wei, who shares a 300-square-foot room with nine others, explained his perspective:
“I think it’s too comfortable above ground. This place forces me to work harder.”
Annette Kim, a professor at the University of Southern California, highlights the practicality of the location for residents:
“Affordable-housing projects in most parts of the world are in bad areas far from the city. People don’t want to live there because the commute is so far.”
Repurposed for the Modern Era
In recent decades, sections of the underground city have been converted into hotels, restaurants, and businesses, while some areas remain frozen in time, sealed behind concrete walls. Other parts have been shown to tourists, offering a glimpse into this subterranean world.
Safety concerns led Beijing authorities to ban underground housing in 2010. While some residents have been evicted, enforcement has been sporadic, and the underground community persists.
A Testament to Human Resilience
The Dungeon reflects both the ingenuity and resilience of its inhabitants. While life below ground is far from ideal, it offers an affordable solution in a city where the cost of living continues to rise. This hidden world beneath Beijing serves as a stark reminder of the city’s history and its ongoing challenges with housing affordability.
